All about washing machines

Do not spin while spinning in the washing machine

not spinning during spinOften there are cases when the washing machine does not gain momentum during the spin cycle. Outwardly, everything is in order, the machine still erases, carrying out all the stages of the washing program: washing itself, rinsing and spinning. The program ends on time, and the self-diagnosis system is silent, without giving out any system errors. But still, something is wrong. And it becomes clear when we remove completely wet things from the drum.

It is understandable if the drum speed is falling or not gaining at all, then there will be no normal spin. Why does this happen, we will try to understand this issue on the page of this publication. Just in case, “we’ll warn you on the shore”, if you have trouble with the equipment, it’s better to contact the master, do not go into the washing machine to avoid even bigger problems.

Problems managing the washer

It’s hard for some to get used to the new washing machine. There is nothing terrible in this, the main thing is not to be too self-confident and read the instructions first, and only then try to wash. But more often it is the other way around, people will start the wrong program first, quarrel about why the new washing machine wringes much worse than the old one, and only then they begin to figure out what's what. There are quite common washing programs that work without spin or with spin at low speeds, for example:

  • delicate fabrics;you can mix up washing modes
  • wool;
  • silk;
  • baby clothes.

If you accidentally turned on one of these programs, do not expect the washing machine to wring the laundry normally. Also, almost all modern washers in the arsenal have a “no spin” button or the like. If you accidentally pressed it or it was pressed earlier, the washing machine will simply skip the spin cycle, regardless of the washing program you have selected.

Some brands of washing machines have a special “no drain and spin” button, which is specially designed for cases where super-delicate items need only be washed and rinsed.

Drive Belt Damage

The information in this paragraph is intended for owners of washing machines with a drive belt and a collector motor. If you have a washer with an inverter motor (for example, LG), you can skip this item. So, in washing machines with a drive belt, the revolutions of the collector motor are transmitted to the drum pulley through this belt itself. If the belt is not tightened tightly, slippage occurs, from which the engine cannot spin the drum to the desired speed.

There are times when the belt breaks at all or flies, but then the washing machine will not start a single wash program, not to mention the spin cycle. So we will only consider cases when the belt just stretched. To check the drive belt, proceed as follows.

  • We prepare the washing machine for disassembly and pull it out to an empty seat.
  • Using a screwdriver, unscrew the fasteners that hold the back wall, after which the wall must be removed.
  • We check the tension of the drive belt, trying to bend it with your hands and twist the pulley.

drive belt can stretch

If the belt bends easily and tries to slip on the pulley, then it is very stretched. The washing machine will never be able to squeeze the laundry with such a drive belt - the part must be changed. About, how to change the belt on the washing machine you can read in the article of the same name, everything is described there in great detail. The main thing is to buy an original drive belt and change it strictly according to the instructions. After replacing the belt, the rotation speed of the drum should be stable.

Faulty tachometer or engine

In addition to the drive belt, the culprit of the aforementioned failure may be the tachometer or the engine itself.The check should start with the tachometer, since it is the sensor that determines the engine speed that fails most often, although the priority in this anti-rating belongs to the drive belt. So, to check the Hall sensor, you need to do this:

  1. we pull off the drive belt from the pulley and remove it so that it does not interfere;
  2. we photograph the wires suitable for the engine and the tachometer so that later, when we put them back, nothing will be confused;
  3. remove the wires to free the motor and Hall sensor;
  4. we unscrew the screws that hold the engine in the claws;
  5. we press on the motor case, as if recessing it inward, it should lean back a little, if this does not happen, gently hit the pulley with a hammer;
  6. we pull off the motor and pull it out of the washing machine;
  7. remove the Hall sensor (a small part similar to a ring) from the engine;
  8. we put the probes of the multimeter on the contacts of the part and measure the resistance, values ​​1 and 0, they will indicate a malfunction of the sensor.

The Hall sensor must be changed to the original, despite the fact that the market offers a considerable number of substitutes.

In addition to the sensor, the washing machine motor may be faulty. By the way, the collector motors that are installed on the washing machines are far from being the most fragile ones, in some cases they can even be called reliable, but they also fail. Electric motors of this type have two weak points: stator winding and brushes. You can easily replace the brushes with your own hands, but if you break through the winding, you will have to change the whole motor, since its rewinding will cost even more.

remove the motor of the washing machine

First, let's check what is simpler, namely brushes. On the side of the motor housing there are small bolts, using a screwdriver, unscrew them, and then pull out the spring-loaded brushes. Then everything is simple, if the brushes are intact, you do not need to change them, but if at least one of them is shorter than the other, we change the two brushes together. This is exactly the case when the details are changed immediately by a couple, despite the fact that one can be completely intact.

Now it's time to pick up the multimeter again and check the engine winding for breakdown. It should be noted that it will be necessary to approach the matter scrupulously, since the breakdown can be only on one turn, and not on several, and it is not so easy to find it. Due to a broken turn, the engine loses power and cannot gain the required speed, although outwardly it looks quite serviceable.

Note! An indirect sign of a broken winding is the smell of burning, so before you take apart the engine, sniff at it.

Something with the electronic module

broken electronic moduleIf there is a suspicion that the electronic module of the washing machine has broken, it is best not to go to it, but immediately contact the master, who specializes in such details. The wizard will remove the control module, carry out professional diagnostics and say whether the part is broken or not. If the part is broken, the master will assess the possibility of repairing the module or, if the repair is no longer feasible, will recommend replacing it.

Very few will be able to repair the washing machine control module on their own, so we will not reassure you. In this case, you are more likely to harm the washing machine, rather than repair it.

As a result, I would like to note the following. Situations when the washing machine for some reason cannot spin the drum to the desired speed during the spin cycle, as much as you like and in almost every case, there is some reason for it. Our experts advise you not to be lazy and immediately start searching for the cause of the problem, according to the algorithm presented in this article. Good luck

   

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