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Dismantling the non-separable tank of the washing machine

Dismantling the non-separable tank of the washing machineA peek inside the tank is required in several cases. Most often, this is necessary when the bearings and the stuffing box “hidden” in the cast construction fail. However, cracks in the element, leading to leaks, can also become a cause. Whatever it is, you need to act as soon as possible. We will figure out how to disassemble a non-separable tank without resorting to the help of a master.

Tank dismantling

The stages of the process of extracting an element from the washer will be similar for different models of machines. A significant difference will be only during the repair of the front-panel and the vertical, in the first case it is necessary to remove the front wall of the case, in the second - the side. To easily get the tank out of the machine and subsequently separate it, prepare the following tools:

  • Phillips and flat head screwdrivers;remove the tank with the drum
  • screwdriver;
  • hacksaw for metal;
  • drill with a diameter of 3-5 mm;
  • pliers;
  • punch;
  • set of socket heads;
  • ratchet wrench.

In the process of disassembling the washing machine, it is advisable to photograph all separable chains and connections in order to properly assemble the machine after repair.

The main stages of the removal of a non-separable tank from the body:

  • disconnect the washing machine;
  • close the valve responsible for supplying water to the system;
  • disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses from the body;
  • remove the top cover of the device, for this, use a screwdriver or a screwdriver to unscrew the fixing screws;
  • remove the detergent tray from the system;
  • unscrew the bolts holding the main control panel. It is not necessary to completely disconnect it from the body, just put the part on top of the washer;
  • loosen the clamp holding the cuff of the hatch door. Pull out the ring and thread the sealing gum into the drum of the machine;
  • unscrew the 2 screws holding the hatch blocking device, pull out the UBL by disconnecting the supply wiring first;
  • unscrew the remaining screws that hold the front wall of the case, remove it and put it to the side;
  • disassemble the back wall; to do this, unscrew all the fixing bolts;
  • disconnect the wires from the heating element, loosen the main nut and remove the heater from the socket;
  • remove the counterweights adjacent to the tank;
  • remove the drive belt from the pulley, unfasten the power supply wiring of the electric motor.

After all parts and assemblies are disconnected from the tank, we can proceed to weaken the shock absorbers. Unscrew the suspension springs and remove the tank. Carefully remove the non-separable structure from the body and lay it on a flat surface for further DIY repairs.

Work stages

It is not profitable for manufacturers of household appliances to make collapsible tanks. In monolithic designs there are no additional bolts and fasteners, and if the same bearing breaks down, most users will purchase a whole tank to replace, paying a lot of money. Not many people know that a washing machine with a non-separable tank can be “defeated” by dividing the molded part into two halves, thereby gaining access inside. A step-by-step guide to disassembling the tank when replacing bearings will be as follows.

  1. Mark and drill holes on the surface of the plastic housing.
    drill holes around the perimeter
  2. Carefully cut the tank in the intended line.
    sawing a tank with a hacksaw for seam
  3. Take out the drum.
  4. Using a punch or a special key, knock out the bearings, install new ones in their place.
    knock out old bearings
  5. Change the oil seal.
  6. Reassemble in the reverse order.

The general plan outlined is extremely simple. However, the work ahead is jewelry and time-consuming, so we will consider each stage in more detail.

Open the tank

So, the tank is removed from the housing of the washing machine. Wipe it with a clean rag and proceed to marking points along the perimeter of the weld. Holes are recommended to be made at a distance of 5-7 cm from each other, no more.For drilling, a drill with a diameter of 3 to 5 mm is suitable.

After visually, through the holes, you can easily trace the cut line, begin to carefully saw the tank with a hacksaw for metal. At the end of the action you will get two halves. It is in the rear “forecastle” that there will be a drum, bearings, an oil seal and a wheel for the washing pulley.

To pull out the drum you must first remove the wheel. The screw holding the ring, for greater reliability, "sits" the manufacturer on the glue. To cope with the fastener, put a bit on it and hit the screw a couple of times with a hammer. The glue will come off, and removing the wheel will be much easier. After that, you can safely remove the drum.

The next stage of work involves knocking out bearings. Take a punch, install it on the inner edge of the bearing, and gently, tapping in a circle, remove the part from the seat.

The opened drum shaft should be cleaned and polished to a high gloss.

we clean the shaft

The seat should also be freed from dirt and plaque. Then proceed to drive in serviceable bearings and a new stuffing box. Lubricate the installation area with special moisture-resistant grease, insert the bearing and tap it along the outer edge using a punch. The procedure must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the new element. When the bearing is fully inserted, you will hear a characteristic thud. We install the second ring on the reverse side in the same way.

The bearing must be completely in place, abut against the side.

put new bearings

Put an oil seal generously treated with special silicone grease on the inner bearing. Silicone will prevent moisture from entering the system and extend the life of new parts.

generously lubricate the edges of the tank halves with sealant

Reassembly begins with the installation of a drum. Its stem should freely enter the bearings. After the pulley ring is mounted in the first place and tightened with a screw. It remains only to collect the sawn halves into one. Lubricate the edges around the perimeter with a reliable silicone sealant, and then connect the parts of the tank. The previously drilled holes will serve to tighten the halves with screws.

glue the halves of the tank and additionally tighten them with screws

As you can see, disassembling a non-separable tank is real. This method will be much more economical than a complete replacement of a monolithic structure. Reassemble the washing machine in the reverse order and check for proper operation.


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