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Checking the washing machine tachometer

Checking the washing machine tachometerThe Hall Sensor is responsible for the uninterrupted communication between the engine and the control system. This miniature part with wiring controls the gaining speed, speeds up or slows down the drum. And as soon as the machine suddenly slows down, does not stop, or at the end of the cycle “gives out” completely wet things - this means it's time to check the tachometer of the washing machine. It remains only to find the part and test it for performance according to all the rules.

Signs of sensor failure

More often the need to check the Hall sensor arises due to malfunctions in the operation of the washing machine. Being one of the most important elements of the system, a faulty tachogenerator immediately signals problems with speed control. So, you can suspect a problem with spinning the drum by the following distinguishing features:

  • the machine dramatically changes the speed mode, then accelerating, then slowing down, regardless of the stage of the cycle;
  • the speed gained is several times higher than the mark set by the user or the system (often even exceeds the maximum permissible value);
  • the drum does not spin to the required speed or does not rotate at all;
  • things are not wrung out or washed.

It is necessary to exclude a temporary system failure or accidental shutdown of the spin cycle, for which we turn off the washer and after 20 minutes start the standard cycle.

These are only the initial stages of the machine with a failed tachogenerator. Next, the washer refuses to start the cycle and displays the corresponding error. In the worst case, the motor will burn out. You cannot delay the solution of the problem, therefore, at the first suspicion of a faulty Hall sensor, we begin the test.

Where to look for a part?

Before proceeding directly to the sensor test, you must find it. It is not difficult to do this, because on all models and brands of washers, it is located in the same place - on a rotating motor shaft. To get to the last, you will have to partially disassemble the machine: remove the back panel of the machine case and remove the drive belt.

remove the back wall of the washer housing

Before any manipulation, turn off the power to the machine and turn off the water tap.

Next is the turn of the engine. We are looking for a small iron ring on the shaft - this is the tachogenerator. You cannot immediately unhook it; you must remove the entire motor. Electrical installation experience is important here: if it is not there, it is better to entrust the service work to a qualified specialist. It is not worth experimenting with the “stuffing” of the washing machine - it is likely to aggravate the situation and bring the unit to the point of no return or expensive repair.

we turn off the engine of the washing machine and remove it

Check the sensor

If you decide to remove the motor and check the Hall sensor on your own, then we act clearly according to the instructions. But first, mark the wiring brought to the electric motor or photograph everything on camera. This will help to avoid errors when reconnecting the engine. Next, we act as methodically as possible.

  1. We unscrew the bolts holding the engine.
  2. We loosen the engine on the sides, after which we sharply pull ourselves.

Be prepared for the fact that the motor is very heavy.

  1. We inspect the sensor and wires for integrity and reliability of fastening. It is likely that due to sharp jumps in speed, the contacts moved away or the latches loosened. Then it remains only to restore the previous balance, clamping the terminals stronger.

When there is no visual damage or abnormality, testing is necessary. It is carried out in two ways. In the first case, we set up a multimeter for measuring ohms, weaken the wiring, apply probes to the contacts and evaluate the result. A value between 60-70 Ohms indicates the operability of the sensor.

Another option is to measure the strength of the current produced by the tachogenerator. We put the tester into voltage mode, connect the probes to the contacts, and with the free hand we accelerate the electric motor. It is important here that a figure of about 0.2 Volts appears, which will prove the operational status of the device.

In practice, the tachogenerator fails extremely rarely, and more often interruptions with the rotation of the drum occur due to the wiring and triacs of the control board. You can evaluate the integrity of the wires on your own, by looking on visible cables for signs of burning, pinching, or moving contacts. It is strongly discouraged to independently correct the situation with the control module - it is cheaper and more reliable to immediately contact a service center.

   

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