Faults and repair of AEG washing machines

AEG washing machines are known all over the world as German-made high-quality machines. Despite the fact that today they are produced under the control of Electrolux, their quality remains the same. However, such machines can break down, individual units can simply wear out from time to time. In this case, the repair of aeg washing machines is required, in most cases it can be carried out independently. How to find the cause of the malfunction, how to fix it, and is it worth it? We will answer these questions.

Symptoms of malfunctions and their causes

Breakdowns in AEG washing machines are extremely rare, and these rare breakdowns are most often the result of improper installation or improper operation. In addition, it is not necessary to exclude the percentage of rejects in production, force majeure situations, when a surge in the network occurs, as a result of which the control board or heater burns out.

Important! If you are vigilant and always turn off the washing machine from the network, you can reduce the risk of exposure to power surges.

The most common symptoms that appear in AEG automatic washing machines are as follows:

• when washing, the water does not heat up to the set temperature, the washing does not start or takes place in cold water;
• in the off state, a rattle and a rattle are heard in the drum when it is rotated by hand;
• water does not get into the drum;
• the water does not drain from the machine, the washing process stops.

With such breakdowns, the most common cause is a malfunction:

• heating element;
• temperature sensor;
• control module;
• drain pump.

How to diagnose a breakdown

After you understand that the machine has stopped working in normal mode, you can try to determine the malfunction yourself. First of all, if the AEG machine has a display, then an error code should appear on it, indicating a specific breakdown. The decoding of such codes is in the instructions for the machine. We will offer some of them.

• E11 (C1) - an error informing that there is no intake of water into the tank, most likely the cause in this case is a faulty filling valve;
• E21 (C3 or C4) - waste water does not drain for a long time, the probable cause is a pump breakdown, the electronic controller may be faulty;
• E61 (C7) - the water does not heat up to the desired temperature for a long time, in this case a breakdown in the heater; Note! This error appears only in diagnostic mode.
• E71 (C8) - the resistance of the temperature sensor does not meet the specified limits, this indicates a breakdown of the sensor itself or heater, which is less common;
• E74 - the position of the temperature sensor is lost;
• EC1 - blocking the filler valve, in this case, both the valve itself and the control board of the washing machine may be faulty;
• CF (T90) - a failure in the control board.

The error codes that the manufacturer has incorporated into the microprocessor are many. We suggested only those that most often arise. In some cases, such codes may not occur, then it is necessary to start the diagnostic mode. To do this, you need:

1. Turn the programmer to off (AUS), thereby canceling the selected program, and turn off the machine.
2. Hold the Start (Pause) key and the Exit key pressed simultaneously.
3. Turn on the machine and turn the programmer clockwise one division.
4. Hold the Start (Pause) key and the Exit key pressed simultaneously until the diagnostic mode appears, or rather an error on the display.

To exit the test mode, you must turn off the machine, then turn it on and off again.

Trouble-shooting

What to do if you find one of the above malfunctions? There are two solutions: try to repair it yourself or call a specialist. If the heater fails, it is quite possible to solve the problem yourself. The action plan in this case is as follows:

1. We purchase the original heating element for the AEG washing machine in accordance with the model of the machine.
2. We examine the back cover of the case, if it has a small technological hatch, then most likely the heater is located behind the front cover of the machine. If there is no such hatch, then the heater is located behind the rear panel.
   If in doubt, start disassembling from the back of the case, as it can be removed much more easily.
3. Having opened access to the heater, we check with the help of a multimeter its resistance, which should be 30 Ohms for a working unit.
   
4. If the heater is faulty, unscrew the bolt in the center and disconnect the sensors and contacts from the heater.
5. With careful movements left and right, we pull the heater out of the holder.
6. We insert a new heating element into the holder and fasten the holding bolt.
7. We connect sensors and contacts.

The temperature sensor changes as easily. On modern washing machines, a thermistor is installed as a temperature sensor, which is fixed to the heating element. Therefore, when checking the ten for operability, you can immediately check and thermistor.

In the event of a breakdown of the drain pump, it is also possible to carry out independent repairs. However, this is somewhat more complicated than replacing the ten, since you can get to it through the front wall of the machine. Instructions for replacing the pump can be represented as follows:

1. Remove the top cover of the case.
2. Remove the front panel, behind which there is a drain filter. At the same time, drain the remaining water and unscrew the bolts holding the pump.
3. We take out the powder cuvette and unscrew the bolts that hold the control panel.
4. Carefully lift the panel up so that it does not damage the wires connecting the panel to sensors and other units.
5. Removes the clamp on the cuff of the drum, and then the cuff itself from the front wall.
6. We unscrew all the bolts that hold the front cover of the case, and remove it.
7. Disconnect all wires from the pump and loosen the clamps.
8. We take out the pump, disconnect the snail and inspect the impeller for debris and damage. The pump winding can be checked with a multimeter.
9. We replace the faulty pump with a new original one from AEG, assemble the machine in the reverse order.

Things are much more complicated in the case of the failure of the control board. Its malfunction can manifest itself with various symptoms that may be associated with malfunction of other units. therefore the first difficulty when working with an electronic module is the diagnosis of its malfunction. The second difficulty is how to determine whether to completely change the module or whether it can be repaired. Such work is best entrusted to a professional who, with the help of special equipment, will test the module.

Note! Replacing a failed module can be quite expensive, about 40% of the cost of a new machine. Therefore, sometimes it’s even wiser to even think about buying a new washing machine.

In conclusion, we note that most common faults on machines of different brands are similar, the elimination of such faults is carried out according to similar algorithms. Repair of AEG washing machines that have been in service for more than 10 years may be required due to normal wear on the machine components. But this does not mean that in all cases it is possible to carry out repairs yourself, in some cases you will have to trust the professionals, even if you really do not want to overpay.