Whirlpool Dishwasher Error Codes

Speaking of Whirlpool dishwasher codes, we mean errors that are recognized by the self-diagnosis system of the equipment. They are assigned a specific code. Why are they so important? Such codes tell the user what exactly broke in the typewriter. If the code is correctly decrypted, you can independently get to the bottom of the causes of the problems and fix them without resorting to the help of the wizard. It is the decoding of the main codes of the Virpul dishwasher self-diagnosis system that we will do today.

Fault Diagnostic Features

The main feature of the Virpul dishwasher self-diagnosis system is that no code has a unique decryption. In other words, the error code cannot specifically indicate a particular malfunction; it only determines the range of possible breakdowns that the user should pay attention to and check first of all. We give a concrete example. Error E5 indicates that:

• water does not enter the dishwasher;
• the pressure in the system is too small;
• a blockage has formed in the dishwasher, which prevents water from circulating normally;
• the intake valve is broken.

As you can see, the circle of malfunctions indicated by this code is wide enough and you still need to spend time to find a specific breakdown, and then fix it. Another nuance. Any of the errors, which we will talk about later, can be caused by a breakdown of the control module or a banal short-term firmware failure.

It turns out that we can add this to the standard interpretation of the E5 error. And if we check the flow of water into the machine, then the inlet valve, then the filters and hoses for clogging and it turns out that everything is in order, then we will need to pick the control module.

Wizards advise when any system error occurs, first restart the dishwasher a couple of times with its complete de-energization to eliminate a short-term system failure, and only then tinker in search of a malfunction.

Like it or not, everything is so simple with these Virpul dishwasher self-diagnosis system codes. Even if you have in your hands a detailed decryption of each code, there is no guarantee that this code will lead to a malfunction of 100% specifically in your case. However, the probability is very high, so the decryption data should always be at hand.

Errors E

Describing the codes of the self-diagnosis system, we will adhere to the following algorithm: first, we will indicate the malfunction code, then its brief decoding and the reasons for the appearance, and lastly, we will briefly recommend how to eliminate these reasons with our own hands. Such a description will be made for each error. Let's start.

Code E1. Means that the system protecting the housing from leakage has given an alarm. In this case, you need to carefully check the bottom of the washing chamber, salt tank and pipes for leaks. You need to see where the water is dripping or already pouring into the pan. You also need to inspect the dishwasher hoses for damage and replace them if necessary.

Code E2. This error signals a violation of the electrical safety system. Probably, somewhere the wiring was bare and there is a leakage of current to the case. If you additionally feel tingling when you put your hand on the metal part of the dishwasher, this once again confirms that a leak has occurred and this is very dangerous. You must immediately turn off the dishwasher, and then disassemble it and check all wiring and contacts.

Code E3. And this is an indication of problems with the heating element. It is possible that the heating element, the thermostat has failed, the power wiring has been cut off, or the bus on the control board has burnt out. You will have to gradually check all of the above with a multimeter. It’s better not to go to the control module yourself, you can aggravate the problem.

Code E4.There were problems with the thermostat, either the element itself burned out, or its supply wiring was cut off. It is necessary to check the thermostat with a multimeter, and if the part is serviceable, you need to carefully check the wires going to it. If both are good, then the matter is in the control module.

Code E5. It means that the water has been drawn into the dishwasher for too long, much longer than the program provides. What could have happened? Perhaps they just forgot to open the valve of the tee tap. Maybe the water utility turned off the water supply or the water inlet hose was just clogged. Most often, the hose itself is not clogged, but a small flow filter, which is located at the junction of the hose with the dishwasher body. In the worst case, the intake valve is out of order, or its power supply is interrupted. We check everything from the water supply and blockages to the inlet valve. The valve itself will probably have to be replaced.

Code E6. For some reason, the machine cannot drain the waste water. We check three main reasons:

• clogged drain hose or waste filter;
• pump malfunction;
• breakdown of the circulation pump.

In most cases, blockages become the cause of the error; if cleaning the filter and hose does not help, you need to watch the pump. Apparently her impeller does not rotate due to dirt that has jammed into it or the pump itself has failed. All this needs to be checked and preferably using a multimeter. For a qualified check and repair of the circulation pump, the help of a master is required.

Faults F

Code F0. This error does not appear by itself. Its dishwasher displays only if the user launches a test program. It means a malfunction of one of the sensors. The problem is solved by a phased check of the sensors, detection of the faulty and its replacement.

Code F1. Most likely indicates a temperature sensor breakdown. If this sensor transmits incorrect readings to the control module, the temperature inside the dishwasher starts to skip. The system decides to stop the operation and give an error. The problem is solved by checking and replacing the temperature sensor.

Code F2. Means that a mechanical float sensor has been activated, which is located in the pan of the Virpul dishwasher. It can be a simple sticking of contacts or it is really a leak. What to do? Well, first of all, you need to remove the side wall of the dishwasher and carefully inspect its pan using a flashlight. If the pan is dry, you can move the sensor with a screwdriver so that the contacts open and continue to operate the equipment.

Code F3. Indicates a heater, thermistor, or control module bus. All these details are checked and, if necessary, replaced with new ones.

It is best to entrust the replacement of the control module bus to a specialist.

Code F4. If "jumped out" such an error, you need to check how quickly the machine drains the water. Restart the dishwasher, install the program and listen to how quickly the machine draws and drains water. If there is no drain at all, you need to watch the pump, the drain hose (possibly a siphon under the sink), as well as the bus or firmware of the electronic module. The latter is the least likely, so focus on the drain pump and hose. Often blockages are to blame, but sometimes the pump has to be changed.

Code F5. Indicates problems with the sprinkler. In the overwhelming majority of cases, this unpleasant error appears when the nozzles startled over the sprayer. It is enough to clean them with a thin sharp object, such as a gypsy needle, and the error will disappear. In another case, this code appears when the engine stops working. In this case, its diagnosis and replacement is required.

Code F6. When this error occurs, we must check the machine for water. We start by cleaning the flow filter mesh on the inlet hose. If this does not help, then you need to inspect the flow sensor and, if necessary, change it.

Code F7. If F7 code appears, then carefully inspect the inlet valve.If the valve works correctly (opens and closes to the end), we proceed to the examination of the pressure switch. First, blow through his tube, and then test the part with a multimeter. We do not repair the broken part, we only change it.

Code F8. Indicates insufficient water in the dishwasher system. The culprits of the problem may be clogged filters in front of the intake valve or a poorly working impeller. In very rare cases, the inlet valve may be to blame. Very often, this error occurs if a poor-quality dishwashing detergent is poured into the dishwasher, which is very foaming. The problem is fixed by cleaning the filter, cleaning or replacing the impeller, and adjusting the intake valve. If the remedy is to blame, then they no longer need to be used.

Code F9. It appears when the machine starts typing without interruption, and then drain the water. In most cases, this indicates damage to the intake valve when it stops holding water. In more rare cases, this symptom is a result of burnout of the track or triac of the control board. In such a situation, the control module gives a command to set the water, but does not stop this process. The solution is to replace the intake valve or repair the control module.

FA. The culprit of the error is the Optical Water Indicator or simply an indicator that tracks the purity of the incoming water. This part may burn out, the lens may become dirty or it’s not at all a matter of it, but in the burned-out bus of the control module. Such dishwasher malfunctions are resolved as follows:

• the lens is pulled out and cleaned;
• the indicator itself is checked with a multimeter, if it burns out, it is changed;
• if it’s a burnt tire, you need to give the control board for repair to the craftsmen.

FC. Such an error appears if your model of the Virpul dishwasher is equipped with a sensor that detects water hardness and this sensor fails. The solution is to test the sensor and replace it.

So, we have studied the various Whirlpool dishwasher trouble codes. You now only have to find the code of interest in our list and read its decryption. If you are still interested error codes of different dishwashers, read the publication of the same name on our website. And we say goodbye and wish good luck!