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How to check the drain pump on a washing machine

drain pump checkChecking the pump on a modern washing machine does not seem so difficult, but not everyone does it right. As a result, the “woe-masters” change the working drain pump, waste time and money in vain, but in the end it turns out that the cause of the breakdown was completely different. If you check the pump correctly, then you will avoid a lot of problems, you can find and fix an unpleasant breakdown with your own hands.

What is required?

What should motivate you to test your pump? Nothing but indirect signs of damage that you can observe in the behavior of the washing machine. What are these signs?

  • The error code that appears due to the modern washing system self-diagnosis system the machine hung with waterautomatic machine. If the decryption of the error code has led you to a pump problem, it means that we check the drain pump first.
  • Before running the command to drain the water from the tank, the machine stops and freezes with a full tank of water.
  • The drain pump of the washing machine does not make any sounds and does not show signs of work at all.

If well-founded assumptions about the breakdown of the pump crept into your head, it’s better not to put the matter back in the dust, but proceed to the selection of a tool that will help in diagnosing the breakdown. We don’t need so many tools, so don’t worry about not being able to find them. Would need:

  1. multimeter;
  2. Phillips and flat head screwdrivers;
  3. pliers;
  4. awl.

Take a working electronic multimeter. If you do not have such a device in the household, get it without fail - it will come in handy.

Get to the details

In an automatic washing machine, you can even see the drain pump without disassembling the housing. And this happens on most models. For the drain pump to be at hand, you must: disconnect the washing machine from the mains and communications, drain the water through the drain filter, pull out the powder receptacle cuvette, lay a cloth on the floor, and put the washer on the right side.

The fact is that many machines have no bottom, and the parts located below are in the public domain. On the one hand, this is not bad, because it is possible to get to the pump and to the engine from below. But on the other hand, the lower parts run the risk of suffering when carrying the washing machine or as a result of the ingress of large amounts of dust and dirt.

pump in the washing machine

In this situation, if you look through the bottom of the machine into the body, the pump will be in front of your eyes. It is installed opposite the drain pump housing, which you periodically unscrew and clean from dirt. Not noticing her is very difficult.

Perhaps your washing machine model has a bottom in the form of a special cover. In this case, you also put the washing machine on its side, but at the same time take a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the screws that hold the bottom. Pry the cover with a flat screwdriver and pull it off, after which access to the bowels of the body opens.

If the washing machine is completely protected from leaks, then it has a special tray with a sensor, which will have to be removed. To see the drain pump of such a machine, do the following:

  • we disconnect the washing machine from water, the sewerage and the power supply network;
  • drain the remaining water from the tank through the emergency drain hose or drain filter;
  • we take out the washing machine in the middle of the room and lay a rag on the floor;
  • take out the powder cuvette;
  • put the washer on the right side;
  • pry off with a flat screwdriver and pull off the 4 latches of the pallet;
  • we slightly move the pallet to disconnect the wire coming from the sensor mounted on the pallet to the body;

The sensor mounted on the pallet is nothing more than a leakage sensor, which, in the event of water entering the pan, blocks the water and stops the washing machine, helping to avoid flooding.

  • remove the pan to the side, get access to the parts inside the case.

We examine the electrical and mechanical parts

Having found the pump of the washing machine, you should immediately check it. The main mistake of beginning masters is that they try to immediately check the pump with a multimeter, believing that its electrical part has burned down. In fact, the most common reason for the pump to stop working is dirt, hair, and other debris.

In general, the drainage system of the washing machine is designed so that most of the debris accidentally falling into the tank, along with things, eventually settles in the bowels of the garbage filter. But even a small part of the garbage, touching the impeller of the pump, can deliver a lot of trouble. The same human hair, winding on the impeller, can easily stall it. In this situation, there is no reason to argue, you need to act.

pump in the washing machine

Washing machine repair, like its verification, we begin by dismantling the part. The pump is removed very simply.

  1. We photograph the location of the wires.
  2. Remove all wires from the part.
  3. With pliers, unclip the clamps that hold the hose and pipe on the pump.
  4. We pull off the hose and pipe.
  5. Take a hand on the body of the pump and make half a turn counterclockwise, the pump will be removed.

Next, we will need to pry special latches and disassemble the pump casing, but even before that you can inspect the impeller. If her hair is wound, it will be noticeable immediately. When checking the mechanical part of the pump, you need to inspect the integrity of the mechanism, rubber gaskets, and at the same time clean out any dirt that has got there.

disassembly of the drain pump

If you managed to check the pump mechanism of the washing machine, but you still haven’t found anything, you can proceed to check the electrics. We adjust the multimeter to check the voltage, we bring the probes of the device to the pump contacts. If zero or one is displayed on the instrument panel, most likely the pump motor has burned out and you need to change the part. You see the three-digit number on the board, it means you need to look for a breakdown further, but it is most likely not a pump, maybe a control board triac, it's hard to say without a hitch.

Summing up, we note that checking the drain pump on the washing machine does not look like a difficult procedure, especially if you get preliminary instructions from specialists. To get to the pump, the machine almost does not need to be disassembled, and checking the part itself will take very little time. Good luck

   

11 reader comments

  1. Gravatar Ivan Ivan:

    It is easier to disconnect the terminals from the pump and apply voltage.

    • Gravatar Andrey Andrew:

      What is the voltage on the pump?

      • Gravatar Oleg Oleg:

        220 volt

  2. Gravatar Kohl Kolya:

    The pump rotates, but does not expel water.

  3. Gravatar Pasha Pasha:

    And if on the contrary, the pump does not turn off? What could be?

  4. Gravatar Zhenya Zhenya:

    "Configure the multimeter to check the voltage ..." correct for resistance.

  5. Gravatar Alexander Alexander:

    My multimeter shows tenths, hundredths, and thousandths of units. And seeing the three-digit value 00, xxx I should be glad. Hooray! The pump is intact in resistance!

  6. Gravatar Anton Anton:

    I have 268 ohms.

  7. Gravatar Zionist Zionist:

    Normally, the resistance is 160-260 Ohm + -5%.

    • Gravatar Pavel Paul:

      I agree. I have 216 ohms, it turned out to be a working pump. To test, connect ~ 220 V.

  8. Gravatar Andrey Andrew:

    What voltage can be on the pump removed and disconnected from the power supply !? Resistance!!

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