How to change the bearing in the washing machine
How to understand that bearing replacement in a washing machine is necessary? She makes a noise, creaks, knocks in the process of washing clothes. These unpleasant sounds can be amplified over time. And if you do not replace the damaged part in time, then later it will be more difficult to do. In addition, a knock can turn into an unbearable rumble over time. If you do not change this spare part at all, then soon the machine will completely fail. And its repair will be extremely expensive. The best option when detecting a bearing failure immediately change it to a new one.
Bearings may fail if the washing machine is used for a long time. They also break due to water. Water leakage causes corrosion, which spoils the part. Leaks occur due to the fault of the omentum. It has a limited shelf life. And often it starts to let fluid through 5-7 years of work. The seal is located next to the bearings. And with each replacement of bearings it is customary to change it.
Self-replacement of the bearing is a very complicated matter and not at all quick. Therefore, before embarking on it, you need to decide whether you are ready to do all the necessary work with your own hands? If the work is too complicated, it is better to call a professional master. All the work together with the new part will cost you about a third of the cost of a new washing machine. Of course, prices on the home appliance market and its repair can be different. And the cost given here is conditional.
If you decide to do all the work yourself, then this article will help you. And for those who better perceive the video, we recommend that you immediately go down below and find the entire repair process in video format.
Tools and Parts Required
For this task, we need to almost completely disassemble the washing machine. And naturally, we will need tools. What exactly do we need?
- Pliers.
- Screwdrivers (slotted and Phillips).
- Special screwdriver with various nozzles.
- Round pliers.
- A set of keys of various sizes.
- Water resistant sealant.
- Chisel (dumb).
- Rubber mallet.
- Big ordinary hammer.
We also need a stuffing box and bearings. They can be purchased at various services and specialty stores. If you do not know any such organization, then simply type in Yandex, Google or another search engine: “Buy bearings for a washing machine”, it is better to add the name of your city to this request. For example, "buy bearings in Moscow." In the search results you can find companies selling parts. Tell them the brand of your machine. Then they inform you about the cost of spare parts. In extreme cases, you can first remove the old parts, and only then pick up exactly the same new ones.
Disassemble the washing machine
First, we need to remove the upper part of the body (cover). It is fastened with two screws on the back. After you unscrew them, you need to slide the cover towards the back of the case. And remove it. Then we completely remove the dispenser of the machine. In some models, to remove the dispenser, we need to press on the latch. Then we need to remove the control panel. To do this, unscrew the fixing screws. The panel can be neatly placed on the side of the case.
Next, open the hatch and remove the outer collar of the cuff. Clamps are different. Some are removed with pliers. Others can be removed using a slotted screwdriver. When the clamp is removed, we need to separate the cuff from the front of the case and tuck it inside the machine. So she will not bother us.
After we unscrew the lock. It is mounted on two screws. Twist them and stick your hand in between the cuff and the wall 
we separate the locking device from the inside of the machine wall. We remove all the remaining fasteners and remove the front of the case. We’ll also remove the back of the case in advance, so that you don’t mess around again.
Then we disconnect the dispenser hopper with the nozzle from the tank of the machine.To do this, we need to remove everything that interferes and loosen the clamp. We remove everything where it will not interfere. Then we need to remove the counterweight (if it is in front). If it is from behind, then we will also get to it and be sure to remove it. Usually the counterweight is bolted. We unscrew these bolts with a screwdriver.
Next, we select the heating element (TENu). Most models have it at the back. Some have the front. Before you take it off, we’ll take a photo of the wires so that we can then connect everything in the correct order. Then remove the mounting of the heater. More often it is mounted on one nut. Weaken it and press the screw. Then we pry up with a flat object (for example, a screwdriver) and take out the heater.
After that, remove the pipe, which is attached to the tank. We already learned to disconnect collars, therefore we do it without problems. Then we remove the wires that can be attached to the tank.
We get to the rear of the machine and remove the drive belt. Next, we disconnect the connector of the wires leading to the motor of the machine. Then we twist the screws that fix the engine. Then we get the engine, pulling it in its direction.
Then we twist the screws that fix the shock absorbers. And we separate their lower parts from the wall of the machine. It remains only to remove the spring. And the tank can be reached. All this should be done carefully so as not to drop the tank.
We disassemble the tank and change the bearings
Now we can put the removed tank on the table. It will be more convenient to continue disassembling. The rubber the cuff is made of may deteriorate during further work. Therefore, it is better to remove it. But first, it is worth noting its position with one or more features of the marker. Next, we remove the remaining clamp and pull out the cuff.
We put the tank so that it is convenient for us to remove the pulley. The pulley is mounted on one bolt. It must be unscrewed. After the pulley is removed, we need to drown the shaft inside the tank. Try to do it with your hands. And if that doesn't work, then a rubber mallet will help us. Then we disassemble the tank into two parts. Most often they are fastened with latches and / or screws.
When we divided the parts of the tank and pulled out a drum, we need to inspect the crosspiece, shaft and bushings. If the machine has been working with broken bearings for a long time, then it is likely that these parts could be permanently damaged.
For example, a crack may appear on the cross. The shaft may deteriorate so that the new oil seal will not contain water. The shaft can get backlash. And in this position, he will not work for a long time. If any of these breakdowns are noticeable, then the repair will require additional investment.
But let's hope that you did not delay the beginning of the repair and your machine is more or less whole. We clean the sleeve and shaft from scale and various dirt that could appear there. They must be processed very carefully so as not to leave any plaque and bring to an absolutely smooth state.
After that we will remove the bearings. To do this, we need a hammer and a blunt chisel. We take the part of the tank in which the bearings are placed and knock them out with these tools. Knock them out carefully so as not to damage the tank. One familiar master did this on his lap. So he prevented the possibility of breaking the tank from below from too much impact.
Usually, the gland also drops out with the bearing. If it does not fall out, then we extract it. We carefully process the mounting points of the bearings on the tank, remove dirt and everything that can be there. Next, they should be treated with a Litol-24 lubricant.
Then we just have to collect the whole machine. After assembly, we carry out a test wash to make sure that the new bearings work properly.
By the way, if during the disassembly process, you will take a photo on your phone or camera, then you can facilitate the process of reassembling yourself. Photographing is necessary for all those parts that, in your opinion, will be difficult to assemble.
And for those who want to see the whole process of disassembling, assembling and replacing bearings on a video, we have prepared a special video. It is made in English, but if you repeat all the steps for the master, then there should be no problems. And so, look:
Interesting:
33 reader comments
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Washing machine repair
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Dishwasher
I delayed the repair of the bearing, for a long time the machine was operated in such conditions. As a result, the master came, disassembled the car, took the drum and took it to his workshop, said that he had torn his back to carry all the tools with him. Now he calls and says that the sleeve (by 2/3) is worn out, and he does not do such a job, no one changes the sleeve in our city, this is metalwork, etc. etc. There is no reason not to believe him, because in fact, for half a year they used a car with a wildly noisy bearing.
Question - does it make sense to repair the sleeve or immediately buy a new unit?
If there is a good turner - it makes sense to repair
As an option - you can buy the part of the tank in which the sleeve is located - new or used.
or you can still find a turner and bore the sleeve in the tank, and then insert the insert, which will repeat the internal diameters of the "native" sleeve. The whole question comes down to money, if the town is small, the salaries are small, the purchase of a new machine will come out in 20 tons, and the old one will be repaired in a week or two, but that’s all to pay a ton of turner.
Well done, it's a pity you just need to cut the tanks in modern cars
In our typewriter, nothing has ever broken, it has been plowing for 10 years, even strange. True, we are trying to take care of her, clean-dry, add kalgon when washing.
We also wash Calgon to soften the water, and it adversely affects the operation of the machine. Although many more factors need to be considered so that the machine does not fail.
Calgon is a scam, never used it, dismantled the machine, everything is fine inside (except the bearings).
We have the same story. We never use Kalgon. very rarely, once or twice a year, we use citric acid, and even then for the sake of prevention. but the bearings came to an end ...
Citric acid is good, but replacing the cross is even better. It is made of aluminum alloy, which decomposes very well from lemons.
How much does it cost to change drum bearings?
In Vladivostok, from 5500 with bearings and stuffing box, and if you change it yourself, you can buy the cheapest imported bearings and stuffing box. Why the cheapest bearings? Because if the oil seal leaks to any bearing, cranks!
Is the price the same for both a collapsible and a collapsible tank?
In non-separable, no one will officially change the bearings. Only private masters, and not service centers, will undertake this. And only without a guarantee.
2 bearings 6205 and 6206 cost me 550 rub +280 rub oil seal. Washer LG f1022ndr direct drive
Is there any special oil seal?
When buying a car, one should carefully look not only at the “guarantee”, “recalls” company (since some of them are paid and do not always correspond to reality). But also maintainability just in case. You should not buy a machine with a non-separable tank (because you have to change the tank completely or change the car), you should not take LG and Westel cars because on the axis where the bearing seal is located there is spraying which is erased from the use of powder without Calgon, which leads to corrosion and subsequent seizure of the gland, respectively, begins to get water on the bearings and the machine Khan. It is treated only by replacing either the tank or the tank cross (it does not depend on the model of the machine).
It is worth taking cars on which you can get the details. Which are unified with other models of the same manufacturer.Also, it is worth taking machines in which the tank shaft goes without spraying, these machines last for a long time and without problems from bearings and tanks.
What kind of specialists are delirious for LG washers? I have been using this brand without Kalgon for 12 years, which doesn’t bother me at all, the LG drums are collapsible, the crosses are bolted and easy to change ... put the original Korean bearings, original glands, crosspieces and your skis will work for another 20 years!
Why are you talking about? I have LG wd80150s. This machine is already 14 years old. All my friends have already changed two cars. And mine for the first time in 14 years rustled bearing. I hope to get rid of the replacement of one. Before you throw something on the fan - think - people read you.
Tell me a candy csbl 75 machine with a collapsible tank?
Hello. I learned a lot of useful things.
Zanussi machine TA833v, it looks like the bearing is failing.
Worth bothering? And what kind of machine do you recommend, or rather a brand?
Good day . Which model would you recommend.
We have Zanusi for 13 years and the bearing seems to be out of order. Worth repairing or how
Zanussi 16 years old - the bearing failed (the drum went up and down) the whole machine should be taken to the master - he decided to disassemble in the end only the bearings and the stuffing box should be replaced everything else is normal - so I think it's worth changing the bearings only to check everything else - the cuff on the door (if 4,500 r is torn, if the shaft is worn out or the seat in the case is also there) I first counted 14 thousand. In the meantime, it costs 1.5 tr - 300 x 2 - bearings 280 r - oil seal and about 500 r - lubrication of the stuffing box (30 g) can be done cheaper by myself, and also work 3-3.5 tr
Kandy 15 years old the bearing on the engine is noisy. Is it possible to operate the machine, as the master said that he could not change the bearings on it. What to do, advise, please.
Good day! Thanks a lot to the author of the article! Thanks to you and people like you who share information on the network, I changed it myself, the repair went out at 800 rubles. Masters take 3500 minutes.
Bearing 6205 and 6206 + oil seal.
Thanks again for the article !!!
At my machine during spinning the drum stopped and did not spin. Is there a problem with the bearing?
I need sizes of oil seals and bearings for the Indesit iwsc5085 washing machine
What bearings does the Atlant SMA 50C102 have?
The new Siemens machine has worked for less than a year. When spinning, the tank buzzed. Disassembled. Large bearing with rust. Water passed through the gland, this is the quality of current technology.
My washing machine rustled. I bought new bearings, but I can not pull out the drum to put them. What to do in this situation?
My advice to you is that if you decide to change the bearings in the washing machine yourself and before that you had little to do with hand tools, do not do this. Better find a wizard on the recommendation.
And I, after buying household appliances before disassembling the plug in the socket, disassemble and lubricate the bearings. And not a single case was that the bearings were lubricated. Sometimes a greased separator is barely noticeable.
The Indesit machine has been working for 4.5 years. Now it buzzed. He howls when he presses it at revs. Hard to spin the drum for sure. What is it? Bearings? And how many do they need? 2? And the oil seal?