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We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

This master class will teach you how to make copies of simple aluminum parts. In our case, the drive gear for the sliding gate broke. In the factory version it is made of plastic. That's what we'll do.
Casting a homemade aluminum gear

We will need:


  • Secondary glue.
  • Plasticine.
  • Gelatin.
  • Glycerol.
  • Wax.
  • Gypsum.
  • Self-adhesive seal.
  • Aluminum (in the form of any unnecessary scrap).

Everything you need is purchased at hardware, grocery and construction stores. It is not expensive and is always in stock. For tools and other things, you need various metal containers or pans, a gas stove and a forge.

Manufacturing process


Let's get down to the process itself. We take the parts of the split gear and glue them together with second glue.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

We fill all the technical cavities in it with plasticine to make it easier to cast the part.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

Then pour gelatin into the pan and dilute it with glycerin. Melt in a water bath until smooth. When the gelatin is ready, place the part in a small container and fill it with the resulting mass.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

Give it some time to harden.Next, we make small cuts to remove the gear. The first form is ready.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

Now you need to melt the wax and cast a part from it.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

When the part is ready, be sure to compare its size with the original one.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

Ours came out a little less than it should have been. The issue was resolved with a window seal. You need to stick it on the gear teeth and cut off the excess.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

Then we repeat the previous steps. We melt the gelatin mold and fill the part again, remove it and fill it with wax. Now it's exactly the right size.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

The next step is to dilute the plaster in a metal container and pour it into the wax part. Let the plaster harden and heat the container in a forge to remove the wax from it.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

We tried to melt wax from plaster in the oven, but it didn’t work out completely, which had a bad effect on the quality of the final part.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

When the plaster mold is ready, we melt the aluminum in a forge.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

We pour the molten metal into plaster, cool it in water and get the finished part.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

Overall it looks good, but needs some minor improvements.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

For this, a file and a hacksaw for metal are enough.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

A lathe will make processing easier, but it is not necessary.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

All that remains to be done after processing the part is to install the gear in its place.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

Do not forget to lubricate the moving and rubbing parts of the mechanism. This way they will last much longer.
We cast a homemade gear from aluminum instead of plastic

Important point! Be extremely careful when pouring metal into a plaster mold. If the plaster is not completely dry, then when the metal being poured is very hot, the water will begin to evaporate quickly. This will cause the mold to begin to “spit” steam and small droplets of hot metal.

Conclusion


Nowadays, plastic parts are often used in highly loaded mechanisms.This is a clever marketing ploy that forces us to shell out for expensive parts. The new aluminum gear is easy to manufacture, will last much longer and will significantly save your budget.

Watch the video


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Comments (20)
  1. Basil
    #1 Basil Guests 11 May 2019 19:46
    6
    the plastic gear in your mechanism plays the role of a FUSE, WHEN THE GATE JAMS, THE GEAR BREAKS, AND THE ENGINE AND MORE RESPONSIBLE parts are affected.
    1. Arthur
      #2 Arthur Guests 12 May 2019 16:08
      12
      To do this, they use either a splitting coupling or an electronic unit that monitors jamming, but not plastic. This is called sabotage and is punishable by law, but no one does it.
      1. Guest Mikhail
        #3 Guest Mikhail Guests 15 May 2019 12:35
        1
        Did you understand what you wrote? What kind of sabotage? Many gearboxes, starting with a meat grinder, have a safety gear. That's what it's called. And installing current tracking or some other gadgets is too expensive and pointless.
        1. Arthur
          #4 Arthur Guests 15 May 2019 19:19
          6
          "...safety gear. That's what it's called..." - This is a fool's errand designed for narrow-minded "users." smirk
          "...pointless and expensive...".Yah??!! These solutions will cost you MUCH less than constantly replacing these "fuses". A splitting clutch is found on many power tools. Just two pieces of iron with balls between them. wink An electronic unit is installed, for example, on an angle grinder - protection against disk jamming. Just a DAC, photosensor + comparator. It costs even less. wink
          Price < 1-2% of the cost of the product.
          Read, for example, "Planned Obsolescence" - a capitalist theory created in order to constantly pump money out of you. And these examples are its implementation in practice. This is INTENTIONAL MASTING, prohibited by law in many countries, but in practice it is not controlled.
  2. Guest Vladimir
    #5 Guest Vladimir Guests 11 May 2019 21:46
    9
    It's nice to see when a person's hands grow from the right place
  3. Guest Yuri
    #6 Guest Yuri Guests 12 May 2019 05:10
    2
    Pure aluminum (wires, for example) is too soft for this purpose, it is better to use duralumin.
    1. Calle
      #7 Calle Guests 12 May 2019 19:29
      0
      Dural is difficult to harden
      1. Artyom Tyulenev
        #8 Artyom Tyulenev Guests 15 May 2019 15:16
        0
        it does not need to be hardened, it ages and becomes harder
  4. Evgeny Alexandrovich
    #9 Evgeny Alexandrovich Guests 12 May 2019 05:34
    1
    I have never had to deal with a gate rollback mechanism, but as I understand it, the drive is rack and pinion.In more precise and complex drive mechanisms, etc., whether diesel is Theoretical or copying machine, and the reason for increased wear or fracture is fundamentally the same for everyone, and this is exactly the case where in life the course of Theoretical Mechanics and the Sopromat, hated by many, are used, but to begin with, from Materials Science If you have a polymer gear, then the rack is also a polymer, and if it is designed for sub-zero temperatures, then something like polyethylene. The fact is that polymers are for the gear through which all the torque from the engine is transmitted to the gearbox or drive shaft, etc. made of durable polymer alloy. And it has been successfully used for a long time and works. No matter what the weight of the printer, the noise is the main thing: the polymer gears have a negligible friction force, which practically does not wear out and does not require lubrication. Now what I want to say is that aluminum will kill your rack, but your problem is not with the gear, but with the excessive load on it, I’ll assume that the rack is heavy, but I don’t know the device. As an example. Example: Laser printer HP LJ 4200, a fast printer for large accounting departments, prints with a hum, or stops. The gears on the main gear are erased, the reason is, old refillable cartridges with a worn magnetic shaft are hard to turn. The additional load eats up the gear, and all devices. Casting is interesting but not a solution. I tested it from a lathe, turned it out of steel, and turned it into a machine made from bronze, and the 3D printer was not pleased with the latter, the consumables for the gear are very expensive, it’s also not necessary in such places, it’s not original
    1. Peter
      #10 Peter Guests 12 May 2019 16:39
      15
      It is completely unclear what the person wanted to say (write). This is what it means not to know your native language!
  5. Eugene
    #11 Eugene Guests 12 May 2019 15:31
    5
    excellent and sensible article, a lot of useful things are thrown away because of such gears, it’s okay if it’s expensive, otherwise you often can’t buy the part anywhere, bow to the author!
  6. Calle
    #12 Calle Guests 12 May 2019 19:35
    2
    It’s easier and probably better to pour epoxy resin with filler into the mold.
  7. Alexander Tanishevsky
    #13 Alexander Tanishevsky Guests 12 May 2019 20:04
    0
    Great idea, thank you.
  8. Ramil
    #14 Ramil Guests 12 May 2019 22:12
    1
    complicated it and lost accuracy, it’s better to pour it into the flask... And well done, wiped the nose of the Chinese!
  9. Alexander Viktorovich
    #15 Alexander Viktorovich Guests May 13, 2019 11:04
    0
    The master is great, and the topic is interesting, but the fact is that if all the gears in the mechanism are plastic, then you can imagine what will happen to the plastic after the metal gear
  10. Guest Alexander
    #16 Guest Alexander Guests 14 May 2019 06:55
    2
    The idea is interesting and relevant to me, but I would like to know how the gear and the part with which it is connected will feel in a month, two, six months.

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