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How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

What is common between a sledgehammer, an ax and a hammer? Operating principle. To strike, they need a swing. Therefore, you need a handle, and the heavier the tool, the, as a rule, it is longer.
During the backswing, the centrifugal force acts on the metal part of the tool, which tends to tear it from the handle. Moreover, this force is greater, the more massive the head and the longer the handle of an ax, sledgehammer or hammer.
Traditionally, to strengthen the head on the handle, a wooden wedge is driven into its end after planting the metal part. Sometimes at an angle to the main wedge one or two smaller metal ones are driven in.
But there are alternative ways of reliably securing parts of the above tools relative to each other. Below we consider and practically implement one of them.
How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

We put a hammer on the handle without a wedge using rubber


How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

The handle can be purchased at a hardware store or made from hardwood, which include: oak, birch, maple, mountain ash, beech, ash, dogwood and others. When choosing, you should pay attention to the end face of the workpiece and focus on the one in which the annual rings are longitudinally and not transversely. Such a handle will be stronger and will last longer.
It is believed that the slot on the handle for driving a wedge weakens it. If rubber is used for a reliable attachment of the hammer head to the handle, then weakening does not occur, since there is no need for a wedge fastening, and therefore a slot.
How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

It is necessary to prepare the handle blank for the nozzle. To do this, we adjust the side with a smaller cross section under the hole in the head using a carpentry knife, a file on a tree or an emery wheel. The landing part of the handle should freely enter the hole in the head without interference, and correspond to it in length.
Next, we cut out a strip from the bicycle chamber or any elastic rubber, which should provide a girth along the girth of the handle with some clearance, and have a margin of about 1 cm in width on both sides.
How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

Lubricate the rubber surface from the outside with lithol to facilitate the packing process.
How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

To do this, hit the opposite end of the handle on a stable surface. It is best if it is a massive wood chock.
How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

After making sure that the hammer head is in place, we remove the squeezed excess of lithol with a rag and cut off the rubber ends on both sides of the hammer head with a sharp knife, so to speak, flush.
How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

Then we gently cover the interface between the hammer’s landing hole and the handle with glue (PVA, “Moment” or something similar). We do this, on the one hand, in order to strengthen the connection, but mainly so that moisture does not penetrate into the connection between the hammer head and the handle. After all, water, being in an unprotected gap, can eventually cause rotting of the wood and oxidation of the metal, which will inevitably lead to a weakening of the fastening and failure of the tool.
How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

What is the advantage of such a stick landing in the hammer head? The presence of a rubber layer between the parts of the tool isolates the handle from the head and the impact force of the striker on another hard surface is extinguished and the hand does not experience all the energy of hard and sharp contact.
How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

All of the above can be repeated one to one, both with an ax and a sledgehammer.The glue, of course, can bounce in places over time, so you have to restore it. The handle can be burned with a blowtorch or gas burner and then wiped thoroughly with a rag. This will give the handle a noble appearance and ease of use.

In custody


Grease of mineral origin, which includes lithol, over time has a bad effect on rubber and it begins to deteriorate. It is better to replace it with a thick soapy jelly. It also facilitates the nozzle, but after the evaporation of water, it loses its sliding properties and further strengthens the connection.
To seal joints, instead of PVA and other adhesives that harden and become brittle, it is preferable to use silicone sealant, which remains always plastic, and less prone to cracking.
How to firmly put a hammer on a handle without a wedge

Since it takes considerable effort to apply a hammer, ax, or sledgehammer with rubber, the opposite end of the handle should be strengthened for the duration of the nozzle, clasped with a clamp and tightly tightened. The clamp can be replaced with construction tape or vinyl insulating tape, tightly wrapping the handle in several layers.
Also, instead of rubber, you can use a tube of galvanized sheet with a seam seam, which is worn on the handle, and inserted into the hole of the hammer. Further, as usual: several strokes and all parts take their places, and very firmly and reliably.

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Comments (33)
  1. valery
    #1 valery Guests November 14, 2018 15:13
    3
    interesting ideas
  2. Guest Vladimir
    #2 Guest Vladimir Guests November 14, 2018 15:38
    18
    The most reliable connection is to dispose when putting on the striker from below, in second place the correct wedge. Elastics and gaskets are short-lived.
  3. Svetlana Gaidul
    #3 Svetlana Gaidul Guests November 14, 2018 15:40
    5
    All the tips are great! Like, I mean a lot of likes!
  4. the guest
    #4 the guest Guests 14 november 2018 20:24
    4
    if the handle of a sledgehammer is punched with a thin end and left a little thick not when it does not fly off.
  5. Konstantin
    #5 Konstantin Guests November 15, 2018 00:10
    27
    Nonsense is complete. Rubber dries up and crumbles with time even without lithol (and with lithol it’s generally a disaster), silicone protects very poorly from water, PVA glue is much more reliable (tested experimentally). The result of such collective farm tuning can be sad. By the way, in villages sometimes before cutting wood, axes are put upside down for half an hour in a bucket of water so that they swell and do not fly off.
    1. the guest
      #6 the guest Guests July 13, 2019 18:55
      0
      this method of hammer ax head attachment is very well proven; rather, the handle will rot out than the rubber will crumble and dry. And the fact that before the axes put it in a bucket of water before cutting is complete rubbish is also often checked.
  6. SERGEI
    #7 SERGEI Guests November 15, 2018 00:18
    21
    A sledgehammer and a pickaxe are mounted on the handle according to a different principle - they do not use wedges. Oil, soap and rubber are unscientific fiction. The hammer handle is a consumable. The wedge is not just invented and it has been used for hundreds of years.
    1. Guest Vlad
      #8 Guest Vlad Guests November 24, 2018 10:36 p.m.
      1
      They came up with a wedge when there was no rubber even in the project :-) And now, in the production of hammers (axes, etc.) they do not use something like that instead of wedges due to low technology (whether it’s the case, they put a hammer on the handle, drove a wedge and for shipment) and due to the fact that changing the handle with a wedge is naturally easier than picking out adhesives and various sealants. And in the villages, not only the axes were soaked, but they read with the torch, so what?
      1. iscander
        #9 iscander Guests November 26, 2018 19:35
        2
        never paid attention to what hammers hammered railway crutches during the construction of the railway. Believe me, they never come off without wedges
  7. Guest Leonid
    #10 Guest Leonid Guests November 15, 2018 00:49
    1
    ON EPOXY
  8. Guest Andrey
    #11 Guest Andrey Guests November 15, 2018 10:44
    24
    For information, a sledgehammer is inserted through the bottom to thicken the handle without wisdom.
    1. Guest Oleg
      #12 Guest Oleg Guests November 21, 2018 10:28
      2
      Andrey, I completely agree. Grandfathers did this, but my father taught me.
  9. Guest Nikolay
    #13 Guest Nikolay Guests November 15, 2018 10:32 p.m.
    15
    Such bullshit about rubber and lithol
  10. 123
    #14 123 Guests November 16, 2018 06:00 a.m.
    3
    You can still wrap it with tape, but this is not for long, for the house - a couple of times.
    1. Guest Dmitry
      #15 Guest Dmitry Guests November 26, 2018 02:55
      3
      better blue tape
      1. Vasya
        #16 Vasya Guests November 28, 2018 01:05
        1
        and red?
  11. grst
    #17 grst Guests November 18, 2018 09:00
    10
    The wedge option seems easier, more reliable, and will last longer.
    1. the guest
      #18 the guest Guests July 13, 2019 19:04
      0
      for reliability, yes you can even have a wedge and a beam two, that is, one wooden straight and the second iron obliquely and plus the rubber from the bicycle camera but not Chinese, it’s like a plastic. So I’ve put up hammers and axes and sledgehammers very reliably
  12. Chekhov Stanislav Petrovich
    #19 Chekhov Stanislav Petrovich Guests November 18, 2018 18:39
    30
    In the days of my distant youth, at our workshop termite maker Grandfather Kolya ALL tools with wooden beech handles did not have a single wedge and all handles were like glove.
    The secret that he protected was quite simple.
    The bottom line: the handle in front of the nozzle is very and overdried at T about 100 C, from which the beech becomes much thinner than the original size. After a dense nozzle, in a day or two the beech takes its normal size. All.
    Note: if the landing hole at the outlet does not have a rounded chamfer, then with the nozzle the handle should stick 3-5 mm outside the hole.
    Good luck to all.
  13. Skeptic
    #20 Skeptic Guests November 20, 2018 12:45
    0
    One remark. PVA glue will not bounce, it does not become brittle over time. Clay Moment, carpentry, epoxy will, over time, they become brittle.
  14. Anton
    #21 Anton Guests November 21, 2018 00:11
    1
    Whatever the child was amusing .. In the anvil, knock with a hammer like that .. On litol ..
  15. Pavlov Nikolay Fedorovich
    #22 Pavlov Nikolay Fedorovich Guests November 21, 2018 09:53
    0
    the best is a resin wedge or rosin when driving a wedge.
  16. Stanislav
    #23 Stanislav Guests November 21, 2018 16:38
    2
    The idea is nonsense, two winters and oh my God, rubber is pouring from the temperature difference. Any glue is not designed for this. Council, go to the defense industry and buy decent rubber and glue. And it’s better to adjust everything in the old fashioned way and drive a wedge.
  17. grandfather volgar
    #24 grandfather volgar Guests November 24, 2018 11:19
    3
    For a hammer, the best is the handle of a hockey stick!
    1. Guest Alexander
      #25 Guest Alexander Guests December 4, 2018 05:31
      2
      For the hatchet, I did this: after putting the ax on the handle, I drove a wedge of solid wood into the slot, and for reliability, I additionally drove a piece of the fitting from a 1/2-inch steel pipe. 3 years already - captured dead! Do not move!
    2. Guest Alexander
      #26 Guest Alexander Guests December 4, 2018 05:35
      0
      I had such a hammer, I did it myself. Gone, sorry! Where will you find an old hockey stick now ...
  18. aleck
    #27 aleck Guests November 25, 2018 10:48
    2
    Thinning is never done perpendicular to the handle fibers!
  19. miha
    #28 miha Guests November 28, 2018 05:45
    0
    Well, what for this hemorrhoid ..!? he wedge and wedge in africa. !!! and lithol will take and corrode the rubber, then what ..!
  20. kunak59
    #29 kunak59 Guests November 28, 2018 09:19
    4
    thick metal plate 1-2 mm. 2 mm long. shorter than the hole of the hammer ... the height of the thickness of a hammer ... A piece of metal
    2 \ 2 cm .. 1 cm is cut into 3 parts \ letter w \ Then it is driven in with the sawed side into the handle with the hammer on .. When driven in, the strips diverge and tightly wedged the handle in the hammer ..
  21. Ufa
    #30 Ufa Guests December 1, 2018 11:22
    2
    In the hilt, make a cross-cut on a cross and plant oak wedges on an epoxy. Serves for many years, both hammers and axes.
  22. Guest Ruslan
    #31 Guest Ruslan Guests December 5, 2018 2:05 p.m.
    1
    not interesting ........ tedious ... put your little hammer in the sun and let it tumble .......... and it will fly far, far ........... only no matter what ............
  23. Wadis 1960
    #32 Wadis 1960 Guests December 5, 2018 18:01
    3
    In the ax of the ax, I drilled a hole and cut an M10 thread. I planted it on an ax, through this threaded hole I made an indentation of 25 mm in the ax with an 8 mm drill. I screwed the M10 bolt to the full depth, cut the bolt flush with the grinder flush with the surface of the butt. Holds tight, try it.
  24. Dim
    #33 Dim Guests July 19, 2019 12:14
    0
    if you carefully look at the hole in the hammer, you can see that it is specially made under the cone. and is put on the handle with a smaller hole down. This is exactly what is being done. so that after wedging the upper part the hammer, in principle, could not fly off. And not even because of friction. but because of the geometry. so this advice is actually past the checkout.

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