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Seven Ways to Unscrew a Broken Bolt or Stud

April 26, 2018 Useful and interesting / Useful Tips 582 356 71

Personally, I have repeatedly encountered a problem when a bolt or stud breaks under the root. Moreover, I am not some kind of auto mechanic or locksmith. All this I say to the fact that this quite happens with an ordinary person who periodically deals with equipment or other technical part.
Well, since you are in such a situation, you should not despair - everything is fixable. I offer you seven ways to get out of this position and free the thread from the fragments of a stud or bolt.

Preparation before turning the wreck

But do not rush to start unscrewing immediately. Before that, you need to take measures that will facilitate your efforts.
First of all, we will spray the place of breakage with penetrating lubricating fluid. It can be any "liquid key", WD-40. Let's wait a bit.

Further, in order to relieve some internal stresses, with a gas burner we thoroughly warm the chip and the place around it.

Well, then we will go directly to unscrewing a piece of stud or bolt.

The first method: a flat screwdriver and a hammer

This is the easiest way, but it does not always work. In about half the case, the hairpin breaks off with a protruding shard, which you can catch on just.

We take a flat screwdriver, abut it in a splinter and shock movements at an angle towards the thread unscrewing, gently turn the chip.

This method is suitable if you do not need much effort to unscrew. If the effort is not enough, then go to the second method.

Method two: try to unscrew with a chisel

This method is similar to the first, but instead of a screwdriver we take a chisel. In the same way, we abut the splinter and perform inversion by shock movements.

The chisel makes it possible to create more effort than a screwdriver.

The third method: core and hammer

If the bolt fragment does not have splinters, or even breaking off occurred just below the final surface of the thread, then you can try to use a core.

We rest the core on the surface of the fragment with an offset and impacts at an angle to twist it until the fragment can be hooked with pliers or another tool.

Fourth method: weld the nut by welding

In my opinion, this is the most effective and fastest option, but if you have a welding machine. Its essence is to weld a nut on top of a fragment of a bolt.
So, to do this, take a nut, but not the same size, but a couple more units. That is, if the broken bolt was at 10, then we take the nut at 12. This is necessary for a better and larger weld point.

Holding the nut with nippers, put it on the chip, but not in the center, but with an offset. We weld a stud with a nut to one side inside the nut with an electrode.
Then, after cooling, unscrew the usual wrench.

Fifth method: unscrew the pin with the extractor

Here you will also need a specialized tool specifically designed to unscrew broken pins and bolts - an extractor.

We pivot the center of the stud so that the drill does not run when drilling begins.

We drill a hole of the corresponding diameter under the extractor.

We insert the extractor into the hole and unscrew the key.

Sixth method: drill a chip

The method consists in selecting a drill according to the lower diameter of the stud thread and drilling it. A very difficult way, it requires skill.
First we go through a drill with a smaller diameter.

Then we drill as close as possible.

We knock out the fragments and the remnants of the stud with a flat screwdriver.

This method of removal does not always justify the effort, but it deserves your attention.

Seventh method: we drill under a clean and insert

The most time-consuming and costly method of all. But there are times when this is the only working option to return the node to working condition.
We drill the pin clean along with the thread.

We cut a new thread with a tap.

This can be completed if the design allows you to choose a thicker bolt or stud now. If not, we buy an insert or order from a friend locksmith.
Lubricate the external thread with the thread lock and screw in.

Stitching flush.
What method did you use? Write in the comments, I think your experience will be interesting! All the best!

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Comments (71)

#1 Guest Andrew Guests April 26, 2018 18:07
22

a left-handed drill is taken and a hole is drilled, the extractor has never been needed :)
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#2 Guest Alex Guests April 26, 2018 18:45
26

There is the simplest, most reliable, fastest and probably the only way.
everything else is nothing more than a fantasy. the hairpin will never turn out either with a chisel or with welding - not with anything !, since it has already broken for a reason, it sits soooo firmly!
drill with a small drill, exactly in the center, then with a drill the outer diameter of the thread minus the pitch and that’s all, usually the turns are released themselves in 70% of cases, if the stud is tightly rusted, go through a tap of such a thread. usually, if everything is done correctly, the thread is like new and takes only five minutes to complete this process.
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1. #3 Guest Andrey Guests April 26, 2018 21:48
  21
  
  He worked at the mine underground for 23 years at foreign drilling self-propelled rigs. I can declare with absolute certainty that all of the above methods are completely EFFECTIVE. And in that order as listed in the note. With frequent collapses, I personally unscrewed hundreds of creases of bolts directly in the face and it was with a chisel and core. (Sometimes with a screwdriver, and sometimes with my hands), but provided that the bolts are branded from normal steel, and if there is a mine shaft turning from rolled in carving, then you drive the car into the garage and then on the list - first welding, then (if it did not help) - drilling. So the author listed everything absolutely correctly.
  
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  1. #4 Yu.S. Guests May 9, 2018 00:18
    0
    
    Right! Everything goes with various problems with friction.
    
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2. #5 appavp Guests April 26, 2018 23:04
  1
  
  Welding helps remarkably - quickly, conveniently and safely, only a welder is needed. I twisted a fragment of the fitting from the caliper, which was not broken off flush, but deep into 5 mm.
  
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  1. #6 Rustam Guests May 7, 2018 18:28
    5
    
    I can add to the method of welding, under the nut that you weld to the stump, I need to put a cardboard with a hole under the stud. Then, after welding, the cardboard burns out and a gap forms between the nut and the base, which facilitates twisting back and forth. (A cardboard is usually a piece of a pack of cigarettes, just right )
    
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3. #7 T2018 Guests April 26, 2018 23:18
  4
  
  You will never get exactly in the center, usually the thread always touches. It is necessary to proceed immediately to a larger thread diameter, for which repair studs are on sale (if the stud is cut off).
  
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4. #8 Guest Valery Guests April 26, 2018 23:39
  3
  
  It is impossible to get into the center of the crease very accurately, and when drilling with a drill, there will be a displacement somewhere.
  
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  1. #9 Ramil Guests September 21, 2018 20:11
    2
    
    If it breaks off below the plane, you can grind the conductor to drill exactly in the center.
    
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5. #10 Passerby Guests April 27, 2018 07:32
  0
  
  Alexei, in 90% of cases you damage the thread because there is no 100% hit in the center, it’s not even smooth. All ideas proposed by the author work.When struck with a screwdriver, chisel or core (the TS divided these cases for the number of points?), The “siskin” moves away and loosens much easier, when heated and welded due to the difference in materials (rust has a different expansion ratio), it also loosens more easily. When drilling with a "left" drill, in addition to the loosening force, heating occurs, well, light impacts (more precisely, vibration) and the "siskin" are unscrewed during the drilling process. the most effective, in my opinion, method is welding a nut
  
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6. #11 Welding Guests April 28, 2018 18:35
  4
  
  Sometimes I used welding. When welding a nut with the remainder of the stud, the latter is spot-heated. Everything burns inside and there is practically no effort when pulling out. The left drill is the same thing, but not always at hand.
  
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#12 Guest alex Guests April 26, 2018 19:01
15

with a grinder or dremel we make a slot and unscrew it with a flat screwdriver
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1. #13 T2018 Guests April 26, 2018 23:13
  2
  
  Even if the body of the bolt was cut off, then what kind of screwdriver can be? I’ll give a million, if at least one attached bolt, so turn out!
  
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  1. #14 Guest Vladimir Guests April 27, 2018 14:27
    4
    
    Repeatedly used a similar method. For screws up to M5 I use a drill with a thin disk, for large bolts - a grinder with a disk 115 1 mm thick. It is drilled along the bolt axis as on a screw 1-3 mm deep, and metal often clings on both sides of the meat, but this is usually not critical. Then the screwdriver and screwdriver with a suitable slot
    
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#15 Mukhtar Guests April 26, 2018 19:23
1

VD or a liquid key cannot be lubricated before frying, on the contrary, only after frying, then the stump in most cases will be unscrewed without effort.
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#16 Guest Valery Guests April 26, 2018 23:36
5

On an emery, a thin scan we grind as a 4-sided long pyramid. We drill through the drill along the broken end, trying not to touch the thread. we hammer in the hole a sharpened scan and turn the hall over the square end. Be sure to drill through.
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1. #17 Guest Sergey Guests April 28, 2018 12:56
  1
  
  Exactly! This is the only real way that does not break the thread. Zubiltsy and cores have never managed to do anything - only the part itself can be corrupted.
  
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2. #18 Guest Andrey Guests May 2, 2018 19:00
  2
  
  All of these options have the right to life, but only a sharpened tap under a pyramid, or a triangle on a cone, really helps. Pre-drilling the yoke.
  
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#19 T2018 Guests April 26, 2018 23:37
3

In 90% of cases, it is cut off due to the lack of discipline that tacked-on nuts tear with meter wrenches. If you see that the nut or bolt does not go, calm down, breathe, then the fields with a bucket or solarium, kerosene ... after a couple of hours try a little swing (back and forth ) to unscrew, if it has not moved, the lei also wait a few hours, after which he will again swing around until this system fails. If there is a burner, then the matter is simpler, it is necessary to heat the nut red-hot (but not the bolt, because it is even easier to cut off!) It is perfectly unscrewed, as if it were not rusted; if you need to unscrew the bolt, you need to heat the red metal around the bolt , It will also be perfectly twisted. Twenty years so unscrew, it does not work out only if everything turned into dust, then only drill.
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#20 Guest Denis Guests April 27, 2018 04:26
2

He shot off the cylinder head on a VAZ 21093, the bolts were with a hex head, i.e. hexagon 11 must be inserted into the head of the bolt. all the bolts were unscrewed using the most ordinary pipe, and one (central) in front in the direction of the car really did not want to leave its place. As a result, having crushed all faces, he decided to cut it with a grinder, since the bolt is outside the mechanism and the place allows. having cut half a bolt, I noticed that the disk no longer goes to cut. from heating, he decided to leave his place, and even by hand. it should be noted that it was -10 on the street, and, apparently, the temperature difference played a role.
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#21 Vyacheslav Guests April 27, 2018 08:17
0

Even during the Soviet era, in Dubovka at a factory, I ran into a repair spiral. She has a section in the form of a rhombus. We drill the hairpin together with the thread, cut the next thread in the size and screw the spiral into it.At the end of the spiral, a tail bent perpendicularly. We take a bar, cut a groove under the tail at the end, bend in half and get a device for screwing the spiral. (locksmiths had ready-made sets) Tricks:
1. The pitch of the new thread should match the old.
2. The diameter of the “screw” bar should howl equal to or slightly less than the inner diameter of the spiral.
The spiral is screwed until the "tail" breaks off, by the way the locksmith did not bother with its removal.
If we sharpen the spacer, as the author suggests, on the next diameter, then we just get a spiral, otherwise you need to make the spacer several sizes larger, which is not always acceptable.
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#22 Dmitry Guests April 27, 2018 09:29
2

Here's how to get a tap out of a duralumin case? Can you tell me that.
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1. #23 T2018 Guests April 27, 2018 12:24
  0
  
  You can try to cut two beaks at the end of the steel tube (tube diameter = hole diameter) so that they enter the tap channel of the tap and twist to open the tap. If not, just break the tap in parts, sticking a suitable beard again in the chip channel of the tap and pulling the broken pieces out with a suitable neodymium magnet.
  
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2. #24 Dmitry Guests April 27, 2018 14:32
  0
  
  So weld something to it, or as written above. But breaking the tap into pieces is not a pleasant occupation. There are taps that are not too fragile.
  
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3. #25 Alexander Nikolaevich Guests April 28, 2018 00:38
  1
  
  In the magazine “Behind the wheel” 20 years ago there was an interesting decision: how to turn the hairpin out of the aluminum cylinder block. I tested it: it’s necessary to drill a hairpin and pour nitric acid into the hole. It easily dissolves iron, remaining neutral to aluminum.
  
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4. #26 Kornei Guests April 28, 2018 11:05
  0
  
  It is etched with nitric acid, the method is slow but sure!
  
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  1. #27 Guest Anatoly Guests May 8, 2018 07:11
    0
    
    where it (az. acid) still take .... Not for sale, because from it you can make some sort of iv
    
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    1. #28 VYACHESLAV Guests July 6, 2018 08:38
      0
      
      Avito to help, I found nitrogen there
      
      To answer
5. #29 Sevastopol. Guests May 2, 2018 15:27
  0
  
  A steel stud, bolt, tap ... are removed from aluminum alloys by etching with 30% nitric acid for several hours. The resulting oxide protects the base metal from destruction.
  
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#30 Guest Michael Guests April 27, 2018 11:20
3

The other day I took off the exhaust, changed the catalyst, all four bolts securing the exhaust system to the collector were cut off, stuck to death, although it was watered abundantly with a liquid wrench and the LM-40 (analogue of Veshka’s moths) warmed and tapped. Buying and replacing the exhaust manifold was slow, but I decided to try to cure my own, since there were bolts from a similar machine. And it turned out!)) I drilled everything and restored the threads. True, I had to suffer a day in the pit upside down. From the beginning I drilled all the broken bolts with a 2mm drill through (I bought 3 I broke one), then expanded it with a 3mm drill, after 5 mm (M-6 bolts), then with new taps in the buildup, greasing it with plenty of blue grease, a quarter turn, slowly unscrewing the leftovers bolts, well, as I unscrewed it, I broke it into pieces with a sword, then with the second sword I went through the thread and bolts with the handle, and everything was tightened as it should! The only thing I will advise is that the drills and swords are only new, because nobody canceled the metal fatigue (who studied metal science in the course), otherwise you can break the "high-quality Soviet sword" which is 50 years old at lunchtime in the hole, complicating your task. Maybe someone will benefit from my experience. Good luck.
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1. #31 T2018 Guests April 27, 2018 12:37
  2
  
  It is useless to pour an exhaust valve onto bolts or studs of a flange; it is almost possible to weld there from a high temperature, it is best not to be too lazy and remove the collector and then in a convenient position warm up the red body of the flange next to the bolts (but in no case the bolts themselves, since they will be released and immediately cut off!), after which the bolts can easily be unscrewed into the buildup, if the stud flange is used, only the nuts should be heated. The time spent on removing the exhaust manifold is more than paid for by the absence of hemorrhoidal drilling of cut bolts or studs.
  
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2. #32 Guest Gregory Guests October 13, 2018 8:11 p.m.
  0
  
  Burnt nuts help unscrew the vinegar. Wet and wait for the maltz.
  
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#33 Nikola1 Guests April 27, 2018 11:51
0

Extractors for this are invented
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1. #34 Alexander Nikolaevich Guests April 28, 2018 00:53
  6
  
  The most successful extractor is a trihedral file: we grind a notch on the edges so that the edges are sharp like a razor. And then - we drill a hole, hammer a file there and twist ....
  
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#35 Alex s Guests April 27, 2018 12:30
0

In the process, another solution was born.
A thin round mill or a cutting circle of small diameter grinder makes a groove in the center of the fragment. The tip of a flat-blade screwdriver is sharpened in the shape of a groove, and then an attempt to unscrew the chip follows.
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1. #36 Dmitry Guests April 27, 2018 2:36 p.m.
  1
  
  It works only when it is very easy to unscrew and if a large part of the broken-off bolt sticks out. But in this case, it is usually easier for the Swedes to grab and unscrew.
  
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#37 Nicholas Guests April 28, 2018 03:11
2

Drill left light. As soon as it gets deeper into the chip, it starts to wedge and thereby turns the chip around. True method is more suitable for chatter of large diameter.
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#38 Guest Andrey Guests April 29, 2018 12:29
0

I consider the first three methods to be nothing at all, how can I turn the bolt so that I could turn it off with a screwdriver))))), the fourth I think it is worth paying attention to, but if there is welding, and if it is not there, the Extractor also seems to be an option but then again, if it breaks down, the work will become even more complicated. But the last option, I use it myself when nothing else works out and then I drill according to the inner diameter of the bolt, and then I pick up the sword for the native hole and everything works fine but you need to work very precisely !!! Thanks and attention!)))
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1. #39 Guest Gregory Guests October 13, 2018 8:16 p.m.
  0
  
  Well, tightening it is not necessary at all, there are old bolts that are not once screwed down and break from the slightest pressure.
  
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#40 nail Guests April 29, 2018 20:07
0

we drill a hole with a smaller diameter. a tap without oil we enter how to wedge it, twist it back. Problem how to free the tap from the stud?
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#41 ilik54 Guests April 29, 2018 21:26
1

And in our youth, we simply drilled a hole in the middle of a broken bolt or stud, after having pre-screwed them. And then a tetrahedral breakdown was hammered in there and with the help of a tap wrench the remnants of the fragment were twisted. Moreover, they did this under extreme conditions in very inconvenient places, for example, in the fastening of the MAZ checkpoint in frosts of -15 ° -20 ° C.
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#42 Taymuraz Guests April 30, 2018 10:00
0

You can make a furrow in the center of the bolt, but this is if the bolt protrudes.
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#43 Guest Anatoly Guests April 30, 2018 5:02 p.m.
1

You can also try using the scan. Drill less than a smaller diameter, select the appropriate reamer (the end must be sharpened), carefully drive it there with a hammer, and unscrew it using a winder (if it does).
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#44 Stepan Guests May 1, 2018 18:11
1

During the repair of the Soviet electric waffle iron, it broke off the M3 screw in a brass sleeve riveted to a mica sheet. The case ended with breaking the sleeve (no matter how hard I tried to keep the sleeve in place), drilling, thread restoration. Surprised by the effort with which the screw stuck - the length of the stuck thread was only 3 millimeters! Neither the wedeshka impregnation, nor iodine soaking, nor heating helped.
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#45 Denis Guests May 2, 2018 11:20
0

Corresponding to the center threading the left and the bolt with the left thread and unscrew
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#46 Unknown Guests May 2, 2018 18:16
0

And a hot bolt / hot rod how to unscrew?
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#47 Tolya Guests May 2, 2018 18:26
0

I drilled the left with a third-party drill. As a rule, the chip itself was twisted while
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#48 Arsen Guests May 2, 2018 19:19
1

The extractor does not always help, but the spline dodecahedron works flawlessly. You need to drill a hole smaller than the diameter of the dodecahedron and hammer it into the hole. The twelve-sided cuts the slots in the hole and does not turn.
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#49 Maksim Guests May 6, 2018 10:59
0

To drill, a threaded insert is placed and you will be happy
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#50 Evgeny Borovoi Guests May 6, 2018 2:35 p.m.
0

Have you tried the extractor? A chip is drilled in the center thin, then - if 10 - eight. An extractor with a reverse thread is screwed in and a chip is completely painlessly unscrewed to the smell of VD-40. During the drilling period, the chip warms up. Why be wise? Extractors in stores on sale. Different sets of diameters. Also, right away, and about the stud. There are freely available for sale. Good luck
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1. #51 . Guests January 12, 2019 08:23
  1
  
  the extractor has a conical surface and, when screwed in, ADVANCES the remaining walls .. thereby wedging the chip even more strongly.
  
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#52 Anatoly Nikitin Guests May 9, 2018 1:55 p.m.
0

there are such drills with a reverse stroke, but how much I searched for it, I could not find anywhere
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#53 Vyacheslav Guests May 9, 2018 18:24
0

These methods are good when there is easy access to a problem place.
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#54 Sanya Guests May 11, 2018 01:00
1

He drilled a hole, drove a trihedral file and twisted it. But so you can not calculate and break the file. And then twisting the broken end becomes more fun.
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#55 Boris Guests May 11, 2018 23:25
1

For those who live now, and not in Soviet times, there is another effective way: a bit is selected - a six-tooth sprocket and a hole of a slightly smaller diameter is drilled under it. The bat is hammered into the hole and the room is twisted out. Bits cost from 30 to 70 rubles, the material is good and do not break like files. In our service, for a long time, most creases have been eliminated in this way, and of course by welding. Moreover, hammering bits allows you to remove deep creases. We bite the heated bolts or even taps with a drill for a perforator, just pre-grind and cut off the splined shank.
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#56 Guest Andrey Guests May 12, 2018 23:23
0

I twisted it out of the flywheel, the bolts hold the crown, the wreckage by 10, the thread was through, the bolts broke off a little in depth, there is no left drill, there is no extractor either, welding, and it’s risky, turned the flywheel, and at first I started drilling by 5 with an ordinary drill, one twisted, or rather screwed in, from a small drill, and two from the drill by 8, this is such a tricky way
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#57 Mykola Guests May 13, 2018 13:22
0

If in the shaft, you can cut it with a hacksaw in a place with a crease and unscrew it with a screwdriver, the bolt heats up from sawing and can be turned out, while the cut remains, the part goes back to work and if the “sadness” happens again, then there is already an old cut and everything repeats again. But this is only for "raw" bolts and studs, in conveniently accessible places. And so I use all the methods, some kind of thing will work if my hands are out of my shoulders.
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#58 Guest Victor Guests May 13, 2018 13:59
0

at our factory we remove a red-hot bolt special drill there is a set the name I will not say drills, guides bushings, red-hot hexagons of different sizes
DRILL LASER BURN OUT THIS IS ONLY SMALL DETAILS AND THE REST VERY LONG) raw is much easier)
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1. #59 Drill and screwdriver Guests May 18, 2018 13:07
  1
  
  You can drill with a small diameter drill (first screw) 3 connecting holes in the center of the wreck. Next, insert a powerful screwdriver into the resulting gap and unscrew the chip.
  
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#60 Dmitry Guests May 18, 2018 13:54
0

I wrote it right. All methods work.
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#61 Pavel Guests May 19, 2018 19:48
0

It is not always possible to warm up with a burner. For example, if the assembly contains rubber, a salen block is nearby or, for example, a hairpin is broken off at the hub. when heated with a burner, the hub seal can be damaged and there is nothing to heat the hub bearing lubrication either. If the bolt or stud was not cut off at the root, then you can treat it with a liquid wrench and a hacksaw for metal or a grinder to make a groove for an impact screwdriver, for example (if the diameter of the bolt allows) I unscrewed the broken stud from the body of the electric motor. It is impossible to heat the burner there, since it would be possible to damage the insulation of the stator winding. And so an extractor to help. If it is not there and the bolt or stud is larger than M6, for example, M10, we drill a hole for the tap M6, cut the thread and screw the M6 bolt on the thread lock. After twisting. M6 and lower so I do not advise twisting since M5 and lower can be broken off when unscrewed. After all, a bolt or stud does not just break. Solution with adapter sleeve also applied.
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#62 Vasya Guests May 19, 2018 20:35
0

Somehow not seriously - so use a screwdriver ... Immediately take a notch.
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#63 Ratibor Guests May 21, 2018 19:24
0

There is another way: In the body of a broken hairpin with a “grinder” cutting wheel, a deep cut is made under the screwdriver with a large sting, install a screwdriver in the groove, make a light blow with a hammer on top of the screwdriver and begin to turn it away. It is better to use a cast screwdriver without a plastic or wooden handle.
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#64 Guest Andrey Guests June 7, 2018 14:15
0

There are more complicated cases. A friend was repairing a motorcycle. In the aluminum block, the M8 bolt broke. Broke inside the hole, i.e. at some depth. When trying to drill, they broke the drill and it stuck inside the bolt. Now, with a subsequent attempt to drill, a fragment of the drill does not allow drilling or spoils the drill. Are there any secret ways? In addition to drilling with diamond tools or jewelry with burrs.
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#65 Guest serge Guests June 27, 2018 09:33
0

pierce the slot in the wreck with a hacksaw or ear (if possible) and a screwdriver ...
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#66 Stanislav Knots Guests July 2, 2018 5:06 p.m.
0

it’s all easier for me. I’m surfacing and watering it right away with water only, and so 3–4 times as soon as the chip has turned, I’ll weld a couple more times and water it very abundantly after the chip
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#67 Stanislav Knots Guests July 2, 2018 17:14
0

if the nut doesn’t want to turn around try to cut off the edge of the nut with a small grinder then unscrew the nut with a chisel
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#68 Vyacheslav Sokolov Visitors August 31, 2018 5:59 p.m.
1

All methods are good! As a welder I use welding, nuts and a cutter! A file for non-ferrous metal!
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#69 Guest Sergey Guests November 1, 2018 20:08
0

There was a case of breaking a bolt in the cylinder head, I’ll say that I just didn’t. On the advice of the mechanic of Uncle Vasya .... stupidly cut the bolt right in place with the cylinder head grinder !!! Take a screwdriver slot and twist! We hammer into a groove in the cylinder head housing ..
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#70 Sergey Guests November 19, 2018 01:33
0

Once I took an ordinary drill and sharpened it
its end is like a fork with two sharp edges.
Put in a drill and at low speeds
unscrewed the broken bolt.
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#71 Guest Valery Guests 12 january 2019 08:00
0

Hello .. I just did a grinder with a piece of stuck hairpin and partly with the surrounding metal. The disc is of the smallest thickness. It all depends on the diameter of the piece. Next (well, Veshka - by itself) we unscrew it with an ordinary screwdriver. Everything is based on personal experience.
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