Unlike heaters, which are still warm while plugged in, oil radiators give off heat for a long time after a shutdown.
Their cost is much higher than others, so it makes sense in the event of a breakdown to try to repair the device before buying a new one.
This article describes one of the breakdowns of the oil cooler and how to repair it.
Here is the problem with the heater:
Everything works, the indicator lights up, the step switch and the temperature sensor adjustment work, the sensor turns off but this happens before the radiator temperature reaches a normal level. The battery is barely warm at maximum settings, and outwardly nothing can be done.
It immediately becomes clear that one cannot do without disassembling the device.
First you need to find the screws securing the casing. They can sometimes be hidden by decorative details of the case.
The first screw is hidden under the top plastic label that says "do not cover." It is necessary to pry it from the side with a screwdriver and take it to the side.
Now the screw is clearly visible and there is an opportunity to unscrew it.
This can be done with both a Phillips and a straight screwdriver of suitable width.
Next, you need to remove the unit with wheels from the side of the control panel. To do this, turn the fireplace over and unscrew the mounting “lamb”.
After taking the wheel block to the side, remove it from the hook.
Now you can remove the tightening spring of the mounting rim, and then the rim itself along the perimeter of the casing.
After this procedure, the casing is easily removed.
For convenience, it can be tilted to the side. Now the details became visible and access to elements affecting the operation of the heater was opened.
The first step is to verify the integrity of the heating elements. So that the instrument circuits do not introduce incorrect readings, the neutral wire must be disconnected from the heaters for the duration of the measurements. It is not difficult to do this, since there is only one wire for two heating elements.
It is bolted to the zero bus with a screw through the tip.
We tighten the protective vinyl chloride tube and use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw.
Now we take it aside and take measurements.
To do this, connect one end of the continuity with the zero output of the heaters, the other, alternately first with one heater, then with the other.
In both cases should show the circuit. If there is no circuit on any of them, then it is burnt out.
In the case of this heater, the heating elements turned out to be intact, so we fasten the wire into place and continue to search for malfunctions.
Since the thermal relay turns off, we turn our attention to it.
The principle of operation of the relay is simple. The bimetallic plate bends when heated, which leads to a power outage.
The easiest way to block the operation of this relay is to bend the stop plate of the bimetal plate. How to do this is shown in the photo.
You should not make great efforts so that the screwdriver does not slip and spoil the contacts. Now this emphasis simply will not let the plate with the upper contact turn off.
Do not worry that the heater will overheat. The position switch will help you choose the right temperature, and an overheat sensor, installed close to the case, will protect the device - if that.
Another such modification option is good in that by bending the plate back, you can return everything as it was before - if necessary.
It is not difficult to assemble the oil heater back.
Everything is just done the same as when disassembling, only in the reverse order.
That is all, successful repairs to you.
